Ayurveda and Fall 

 

staying-grounded

 

On week 29 let’s take a look at what the ancient system of Ayurveda is about and what modalities are available to us to enter fall in an aware synergy with this season so we can live in harmony and wellness. When we live conscious of mind, body and spirit we are whole and we can function from a well-sustained energy that supports us in every aspect of our lives.

Let’s take a tour of our body and what goes on in fall, so with this information, we can be aware of how we work with the earth’s rhythms in the different seasons.

Our Muscles & Colon

 

 

This video can truly explain why we have pains, dryness and so much more and how easy is to correct it

 

 

 

 

Fall the opposite of spring season, by late September our reduced blood flow leaves your muscles inducing fatigue. In this season the days start to grow darker earlier, a comfortable evening curled up on the couch or our beds with a favorite movie or a book seems like a thing to do. Smooth muscle tissue, including the tissue of our colon, become sluggish when the temperature and pulse rate drop. The colon, also sensitive to stress, holds the wear and tear of the autumn season.

 

Indigestion & Electrolytes

A process called cold diuresis (Diuresis is the physiological process by which urine production in the kidneys is increased as part of the body’s homeostatic maintenance of fluid balance.)this action causes the fluid loss in Autumn. Cold diuresis is a response to vasoconstriction. When our blood vessels constrict, it increases blood pressure much as squeezing the air inside a balloon. The kidneys then proceed to release the extra pressure by removing fluids from circulation and emptying them into the urine. A summer of hot sweating followed by cold diuresis may leave you dehydrated and electrolyte deficient. Here is important to keep in mind to add foods that can support electrolyte, juiciness and salty taste encourages water retention for dry Vata. Vata types should avoid dry foods in the fall altogether.

 

Cold Feet & Warm Socks

 

feet-in-winter-socks-before-fireplace

Some people get cold feet even when wearing extra warm clothes to compensate. Too much of tight clothing like socks can’t coax blood out of hibernation once it moves to the core. The body at this point may simply lack confidence or strength to maintain core temperature and warm our feet. A sweater to heat the core does a better job than an extra pair of socks to cure cold feet. Lifestyle changes, such as warm clothes and indoor heating, can convince the body it has heat to spare. Additionally, daily oil massage in the morning before bath coats the skin and prevents evaporation. As in a summer sweat, evaporation causes significant heat loss. Oil massage thus helps retain heat by creating a protective barrier, let’s be aware of the kinds of oil that can help with this process. Once the pathological cold has penetrated our system, hot baths may be the only way to restore circulation. A pinch of turmeric keeps circulation strong. Sour lemons in morning tea convince sweat glands and stomach glands to stay juicy, Ginger lemon tea is a great aid here.
Fall is a time of transition. It is evident everywhere around us. Trees and shrubs are quietly undressing in preparation for the winter in their beautiful rhythm of the seasons. There is a subtle browning of the earth she goes within. Temperatures, which, just a few weeks ago were raging with the intense heat of summer, are beginning to hint at the telltale crispness of autumn. And there is the wind: slowly gathering strength, carrying the tides of winter on its breath to its role in nature. Fall harbors a certain emptiness that can leave us feeling exposed and a little raw, but it is also filled with possibility—a time when we, too, can strip down to a quiet essence of being and savor the simplicity of life and heart connection. The fall brings with it a predominance of air element and prana (the vital breath, the subtle essence of life) is abundant in the atmosphere at this time. Autumn is dry, it can be rough, windy, erratic, cool, subtle, and clear. These are all qualities shared by Vata dosha, and because like increases like, autumn is considered a Vata season. This same principle illustrates why taking a few simple steps to balance Vata dosha this fall can be tremendously beneficial to be in balance

 

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Emotions, the Mind, Inspiration time

 

 

life-should-be-a-continuous-source-of-inspiration-quotes-yogananda

The fall is a time for inspiration and to work on new ideas. The movement of blood from the extremities back to the core increases blood flow to the mind a very interesting process of the intelligence of our body. The opportunity to reflect on the last few months could stir up emotions as well. The Wind, sudden temperature shifts, and the school season also provoke higher stress levels this time of year. According to Ayurveda, keeping the nervous system stable through fall is our number one tool for maintaining strong immunity and staying healthy. Ashwagandha is Ayurveda’s most important herb for Vata-type anxiety and Chywanprash helps build immunity.

 

Routine & Flexibility

 

 

 

When we wear oneself ragged in Fall social calendar it can result in a compromised immunity for flu season. Alternatively, relaxation and downtime free up the energy to help the body prepare for winter. Skipping meals, staying up late, and irregular mealtimes, toxic process food that had never seen sun or soil, create stress and deficiency. Here is a great contributor to check, Joyful Belly offers a nurturing fall program called Restoring Youth and Vitality to prepare the body for winter.
Ayurveda is an ancient science based on elemental principles that pertain to life on earth and the connection to it with body, mind, and soul is no separation here. Ayurveda recognizes the elements of ether, air, fire, water, and earth as the building blocks of the natural world. According to Ayurveda, these five elements pair-up in three combinations to form the primary forces of nature called doshas. Ether and air from Vata Dosha.  Fire and water make up pitta dosha.  Water and earth create Kapha dosha which we all possess in ourselves.

Great video to learn and get your answers from, enjoy.

 

 

 

The Vata Dosha is the one connected with Fall lets find out what Vata is about:

 

vata

Vata dosha predominates, movement and change are characteristic of the nature of Vata. You tend to always be on the go, with an energetic and creative mind. As long as Vata is in balance, you will be lively and enthusiastic, with a lean body, Energy that controls bodily functions associated with motion, including blood circulation, breathing, blinking, and your heartbeat.

• In balance: There are creativity and vitality.
• Out of balance: Can produce fear and anxiety.

Vata Predominant Types: Creative; Quick to learn and grasp new knowledge, but also quick to forget, Slender; Tall and a fast-walker; Tendency toward cold hands and feet, discomfort in cold climates; Excitable, lively, fun personality; Changeable moods; Irregular daily routine; High energy in short bursts; Tendency to tire easily and to overexert; Full of joy and enthusiasm when in balance; Responds to stress with fear, worry, and anxiety, especially when out of balance; Tendency to act on impulse; Often have racing, disjointed thoughts; Generally have dry skin and dry hair and don’t perspire much.

 

vata-balancing-guidelines

Physical Characteristics

 

vata-pitta-kapha-univergia

Those with a predominance of Vata dosha usually have a thin, light frame and excellent agility. Their energy comes in bursts and they are likely to experience sudden bouts of fatigue. Vata’s typically have dry skin and hair and cold hands and feet. They sleep lightly and their digestion can be sensitive. When the Vata dosha becomes imbalanced, it manifests in the body as weight loss, constipation, hypertension, arthritis, weakness, restlessness, and digestive challenges.
Emotional Characteristics
Vatas love excitement and new experiences. They are quick to anger but also to forgive. When Vata are in balance, they are energetic, creative, and flexible. They also take initiative and are lively conversationalists. When unbalanced, they are prone to worry and anxiousness and often suffer from insomnia. When they feel overwhelmed or stressed, their response is, “What did I do wrong?”
The influence of Vata’s ether and air contributions, we can feel light, carefree and creative or spacey, scattered, and unstable. The etheric nature of Vata creates a sense of space, in which you may feel free or lost if it is not balanced. The airy aspect of Vata can inspire productivity or promote anxiety. Ayurveda teaches that like increases like much like the law of attraction, isn’t it?. If you are dominantly Vata by nature or are consistently influenced by Vata, you are more likely to experience the negative effects of excess Vata during the Vata season.

 

 

Who determines what Dosha we are and where it comes from?

 

dosha-characteristics

Here is a quick test to find out what Dosha you are:

Here is a great site to determine what dosha you are:  Chopra Dosha Quiz

 

Prakriti is our basic constitution. This is determined at the moment of conception and relates to your genetically inherited physical and emotional qualities. Prakriti specifically relates to those qualities, characteristics, and tendencies that are the stable makeup of ourselves. For instance, while you may experience temporary changes, like gaining or losing ten pounds, feeling nervous or irritable, developing a cold or flu,to mention a few, in the natural course of life you will never gain or lose five inches on your height or experience a change of eye color unless is a major affection, but not in our normal state of health.
Prakriti is enlivened and described by three main doshas or forces: Vata, Pitta, and Kapha. These are loosely translated as Air, Fire, and Earth, respectively. Each of us has all three doshas in our constitution, in our unique proportions.
In Ayurveda, seven dosha-predominant Prakritis are described: Vata-predominant,Pitta-predominant,Kapha-predominant;
Three dual Prakritis,
We’re two doshas are equally, or nearly equally predominant: Vata-Pitta predominant, Pitta-Kapha predominant
And Vata-Kapha predominant
And one Prakriti that has all three doshas equally prominent: Vata-Pitta-Kapha predominant.

Note: Even a thoughtful test cannot take the place of an evaluation by a qualified Ayurvedic practitioner. The results of this test may give a good indication of the primary doshas in your Prakriti but the evaluation of your practitioner may be more accurate.

Vata governs movement in the body, the activities of the nervous system, and the process of elimination.

 

 

Qualities of Vata:

 

 

vata-qualities

 

 

• Cold
• Light
• Dry
• Irregular
• Rough
• Moving
• Quick
• Changeable

 

As the external environment changes during the Vata season, your internal environment can experience the same type of changes; dry leaves, dry skin; crackly leaves, crackly joints; shorter days, shorter attention span; colder days, colder extremities, windy days, windy bowels. The qualities of Vata dosha are found in the disorders that are common at this time of year. By observing the processes of Mother Nature, you can better understand the processes of your body, mind, and spirit.

Applying the Ayurvedic principle that opposite actions create balance, you can maintain balance during the Vata season by emphasizing lifestyle and food choices that are grounding, stabilizing, warming, moisturizing and softening.  You can stay calm and connected in this whirlwind season with a consistent practice that includes nourishing and protective measures. Ayurveda promotes simple and regular routines as having a deeper effect on balancing Vata than an ‘as needed’ approach.

Offered here are Ayurvedic recommendations for enjoying the Vata season with stability and serenity:
Fall is a time of transition. It is evident everywhere around you. Many trees and shrubs are quietly undressing in preparation for the winter. There is a subtle browning of the earth. Temperatures, which, just a few weeks ago were raging with the intense heat of summer, are beginning to hint at the telltale crispness of autumn. And there is the wind: slowly gathering strength, carrying the tides of winter on its breath. The autumn harbors a certain emptiness that can leave us feeling exposed and a little raw, but it is also filled with possibility—a time when we, too, can strip down to a quiet essence of being and savor the simplicity. The fall brings with it a predominance of air element and prana (the vital breath, the subtle essence of life) is abundant in the atmosphere. Autumn is dry, rough, windy, erratic, cool, subtle, and clear. These are all qualities shared by Vata dosha, and because like increases like, autumn is considered a Vata season. This same principle illustrates why taking a few simple steps to balance Vata this fall can be tremendously beneficial.

Ayurveda considers a seasonal routine an important cornerstone of health, year around. Balancing the nature of your local climate with lifestyle choices that offset the potential for seasonally-induced imbalances is one of the simplest ways that you can protect your well-being. But keep in mind that the seasons vary widely from one place to another, as do the qualities that they engender. “Vata season” is whatever time of year most embodies the attributes that characterize Vata dosha: dry, light, cold, rough, subtle, mobile, and clear (or empty). Autumn is the classic Vata season. However, depending on where you live, the dry and expansive qualities of Vata may be prevalent components of your environment as early as summer, and the autumn may be followed by a very drying, cold, isolating, and/or windy winter.
Beginning to observe your environment from this qualitative perspective empowers you to respond to both daily and seasonal fluctuations in your local climate. The truth is that many of us adopt seasonally appropriate habits already, without even being conscious of doing so. For instance, summer is a time when we often enjoy salads and watermelon in abundance, both perfect antidotes to the heat and intensity of the summer. Whereas by October and November, we’re often baking delicious pumpkin bread and dining on hearty, grounding soups—foods that naturally subdue the dry, light, and erratic nature of the fall. By making diet and lifestyle choices that counter the effects of each season, you can better maintain your internal sense of equilibrium throughout the year

If we consider the Ayurvedic principle that opposites balance, Vata season (which is cool, light, dry, windy, and unpredictable) will be less aggravating if you fill it with warmth, oiliness, deep nourishment, loving relationships, and a sense of stability, routine, and groundedness. In addition, you may find it helpful to familiarize yourself with signs and symptoms of Vata imbalance so that you are better prepared to address those immediately if they do arise. The following recommendations are appropriate for most people, but if you know your constitution or your current state of balance, you can tailor your seasonal routine appropriately. Below the general recommendations that follow, you will find links to more dosha-specific considerations.

 

 

 

Your diet is a powerful way to soothe Vata this fall. Substantive, oily, nourishing foods that are high in protein, high in fat, brought to life with warming, stimulating spices, and served hot, will go a long way toward maintaining your internal reserves of moisture and keeping you grounded through the Vata season. You’ll also want to favor the sweet, sour, and salty tastes. In general, eat mushy, soft foods and garnish them generously with ghee or oil. Breakfasts of cooked grains—like oatmeal, tapioca, cream of rice, and cream of wheat—are perfect at this time of year. Lunches and dinners that include steamed vegetables, hearty grains, soups, and stews are grounding and moisturizing. If you eat meat and eggs, this is one of the best times of year to enjoy them. Dairy products and most nuts and seeds are also beneficial. In general, you’ll want to reduce your consumption of raw vegetables, cold and frozen foods, as well as the bitter, pungent, and astringent tastes. It is best to minimize light, cooling, and drying foods like broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, sprouts, leafy greens, white potatoes, beans, popcorn, crackers, millet, and dried fruit. If you do eat these foods, eat them in moderation and make sure that they are soaked, well cooked, or served with ghee.
You may find that, during the course of the fall, you’ll naturally want to increase your intake of food, but be careful to follow the lead of your appetite and digestion. This is also a great time of year to do a mono diet type of cleanse. Vata requires adequate nourishment so it is best to avoid fasting.

 

The following is a list of ideal Vata season foods:

 

Fruits to Favor
Apples (cooked)
Avocados
Bananas
Dates
Figs
Grapefruit
Grapes
Lemons
Limes
Mangoes
Oranges
Papayas
Prunes (soaked)
Raisins (soaked)
Tangerines
Vegetables to Favor
Beets
Carrots
Chilies
Garlic
Okra
Onions
Pumpkins
Squash, Winter
Sweet Potatoes
Grains to Favor
Amaranth
Basmati Rice
Brown Rice
Oats
Quinoa
Wheat
Legumes to Favor
Kidney Beans
Miso
Mung Beans
Tur Dal
Urad Dal
Nuts and Seeds to Favor
All nuts and seeds are supportive of vata season
Dairy to Favor
Butter
Buttermilk
Cheese
Cream
Ghee
Kefir
Milk (not cold)
Sour Cream
Yogurt
Animal Products to Favor (If You Eat Them)
Beef
Buffalo
Chicken
Crab
Duck
Eggs
Fish
Lobster
Oysters
Shrimp
Turkey
Venison
Oils to Favor
Almond Oil
Ghee
Olive Oil
Peanut Oil
Safflower Oil
Sesame Oil
Sweeteners
Honey
Jaggary
Maple Syrup
Molasses
Rice Syrup
Sugar (Raw)
Spices to Favor (All Spices Are Good for Vata Season)
Allspice
Anise
Asafoetida (Hing)
Basil
Bay Leaf
Black Pepper
Cardamom
Cinnamon
Clove
Cumin
Dill
Garlic
Ginger
Mustard Seeds
Nutmeg
Oregano
Paprika
Parsley
Rosemary
Saffron
Turmeric

 

Vata Season Lifestyle Choices

 

One of the most effective ways to support Vata is by establishing a daily routine. Try to do the same things (wake up, exercise, eat meals, go to bed, etc.) at roughly the same times each day. Set the tone for your day by rising early, taking full advantage of the silence, stillness, and peace that are intrinsic to the early morning hours. Then, you can calm your nervous system, awaken your tissues, and ground your energy by massaging your skin with warm, organic Sesame Oil. Follow this practice with a warm, relaxing shower, leaving a coat of oil on the skin to absorb throughout the day. Steam baths and humidifiers can help to preserve internal moisture as well. Some gentle yoga and ten to fifteen minutes of meditation will further your sense of stability and wellness. If you enjoy a little fragrance, vetiver, geranium, and citrus essential oils are very appropriate this time of year. Dress in autumn colors when appropriate—reds, yellows, oranges, and whites—and wear enough clothes that you stay warm throughout the day. When you step out into the elements, cover your head and ears to protect them from the biting wind and cold. If possible, minimize your exposure to drafts, loud noise, aggressive music, fast driving, and excessive sexual activity. Try to be in bed by 10 p.m. so that you get plenty of rest before dawn.

 

Vata Season Exercise

 

The best times of day to exercise are in the early morning and evening hours (6–10 a.m. and 6–10 p.m.). Vata is very easily aggravated by fast, mobile activities, so consider slow, gentle, strengthening forms of exercise instead. Walking, hiking, swimming, biking, yoga, and tai chi are good choices, provided they are done at an appropriate level of intensity. Ideally, exercise at about fifty to seventy percent of your capacity, breathing through your nose the entire time. And remember to balance your activity with adequate relaxation and sleep so that your tissues can rejuvenate properly.

 

Vata Season Yoga

 

 

 

 

 

Incorporating a sense of warmth, grounding, stability, and focus on your yoga practice has a profoundly calming effect on Vata and can work wonders during Vata season. Your breath should be deep and fluid. If you practice pranayama (yogic breathing exercises), alternate nostril breathing is very balancing this time of year. In your asana practice, favor Vata-pacifying yoga. Warm up slowly and include some joint rotations. Move with intention and fluidity—grounding the hands and the feet on the mat whenever possible—and avoid jumping between postures. Gentle flows like a relaxed sun salutation are perfect for Vata. You can also favor standing and balancing poses such as mountain, warrior I, warrior II, and tree pose to increase stability and strength. Connect with the earth beneath you in poses such as thunderbolt, cat-cow, cobra, and child’s pose, and quiet the mind with forward bends such as intense westward stretch. Gentle inversions and restorative poses such as legs up the wall are also very good for Vata. Close your practice with a long corpse pose, covering yourself with a blanket so that you don’t get chilled.
Herbal Support for Vata Season
Taking Chyavanprash in the morning can help to reinforce immunity, strength, and energy during the autumn season. Ashwagandha is stabilizing to the mind and nervous system, and can promote sound sleep, strong digestion, proper elimination, and appropriate strength; it is available as a powder, tablet, and liquid extract. Similarly, herbal teas made from ginger, licorice, or a combination of cumin, coriander, and fennel, can help to promote proper digestion and warmth. Another grounding, vitalizing herbs and formulas include Dashamula, Haritaki (also available in tablets), Triphala (also available in tablets), and Vidari. The following herbal tablets are also generally quite supportive during Vata season: Healthy Vata, Joint Support, Mental Clarity, Stress Ease, Tranquil Mind, and Vata Digest.
More Specific Support for Your System
The following links to dosha-specific recommendations are intended to assist you in offering more personalized support to your particular constitution. If you don’t know yours, consider taking our simple Prakriti quiz, and then choose the appropriate link below to further customize your seasonal routine.
Remember, a seasonal routine is an investment in your own health and vitality. And while the specifics may vary from one person to the next, we all stand to benefit from aligning ourselves with the rhythms of nature throughout the year. This fall, embrace the unique gifts of autumn and—with the help of an appropriate seasonal routine—enjoy it from a place of stability, humility, and gratitude.

Ayurveda is an ancient science based on elemental principles that pertain to life on earth. Ayurveda recognizes the elements of ether, air, fire, water, and earth as the building blocks of the natural world. According to Ayurveda, these five elements pair-up in three combinations to form the primary forces of nature called doshas. Ether and air from Vata Dosha.  Fire and water make up pitta dosha.  Water and earth create Kapha Dosha.

Under the influence of Vata’s ether and air contributions, you can feel light, carefree and creative or spacy, scattered, and unstable. The etheric nature of Vata creates a sense of space, in which you may feel free or lost. The airy aspect of Vata can inspire productivity or promote anxiety. Ayurveda teaches that like increases like. If you are dominantly Vata by nature or are consistently influenced by Vata, you are more likely to experience the negative effects of excess Vata during the Vata season.

As the external environment changes during the Vata season, your internal environment can experience the same type of changes; dry leaves, dry skin; crackly leaves, crackly joints; shorter days, shorter attention span; colder days, colder extremities, windy days, windy bowels. The qualities of Vata dosha are found in the disorders that are common at this time of year. By observing the processes of Mother Nature, you can better understand the processes of your body, mind, and spirit.

Applying the Ayurvedic principle that opposite actions create balance, you can maintain balance during the Vata season by emphasizing lifestyle and food choices that are grounding, stabilizing, warming, moisturizing and softening.  You can stay calm and connected in this whirlwind season with a consistent practice that includes nourishing and protective measures. Ayurveda promotes simple and regular routines as having a deeper effect on balancing Vata than an ‘as needed’ approach.

 

Do you know what is in your beauty products?
begoun

On week 28 we would like to introduce you to Paula Begoun. If you are the kind of person that likes to know what is in the ingredients of what you eat, use on your skin or anywhere on you or family members and pets, you would love to meet Paula Begoun. She has a site where you can find out what the ingredients of most of the products on the market contain.

I personally like to know what the cosmetic industry says is really what they say it is or if I can avoid harsh chemicals that after time and time of usage may be working against my wellbeing and the wellbeing of the actors that I apply these products on.

She is very accurate and has lots of integrity, let’s read what she has to say, and if you need to check a product you can use the links we provided and get your own answers and enjoy the whole site.

Have fun and share, don’t forget to like us on Social media. If you do it makes a huge difference in the world of Blogs and popularity to have sponsors thank you for your help from all of us at I-RAMA

 

 

Great site for information, it is a must!

Who is Paula?

Paula Begoun is the creator and tremendous innovative force behind Paula’s Choice skin care and cosmetics company.  Her very informative website includes reports on skin care and links to video demos, is Cosmetics Cop.  She is the author of 18 best-selling books including Don’t Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me, Blue Eyeshadow Should Be Illegal, The Original Beauty Bible, and Don’t Go Shopping for Hair-Care Products Without Me. Paula’s books have sold more than 2.5 million copies worldwide WOW no joke!

Her hard work as a nationally-recognized consumer expert for the cosmetics industry has led her to the repeat appearances on CNN, as well as programs such as Oprah, The Today Show, 20/20, Dateline NBC, The View, and Dr Ozand many International interviews.

Paula’s Story: In Her Own Words

Paula:

From the very beginning of my career, my goal has been to help women find products that will give them the skin they’ve always wanted for myself and at the same time educate them —whether you use  Paula’s Choice products that I developed and formulated or those from other brands. I have the unique distinction of being the only cosmetics company founder in the world who recommends products other than my own as long as they are safe to use.

I created Paula’s Choice as the result of my own frustrations when I was a young teenager trying to find products for my problem skin and then, later in life, for wrinkles and skin discolourations and the challenges that came with maturing. My complexion was a mess and, so many of you, the skin-care products I used either didn’t help or made matters much worse.

Paula’s Choice is a really comprehensive selection of skin-care and select makeup products that meet my very strict criterion for excellence based only on what published research shows is effective and safe to use. My products are guaranteed to exceed your expectations.

I have provided state-of-the-art formulas that are always fragrance-free, ecologically responsible, and never, never tested on animals I make sure of that. I like to invite you to let my many years of research and acquired knowledge benefit your skin and your whole persona. With Paula’s Choice, healthy, youthful, radiant skin is a result you can count on!

In the early 1990s, Paula started work with a team of cosmetic chemists to develop her own line of skincare and cosmetics. Her products offer results based on published, her proved research and her extensive research of the cosmetic industry provided her with the expertise necessary to develop these formulations. In 1995, Paula Begoun started selling her products online. This led to some consumers to question the objectivity of her product reviews. She responds to these concerns, she claims that Paula’s Choice is one of the only companies that recommends products other than their own.

Begoun remains a consultant for dermatologists, plastic surgeons, major cosmetics companies, news and industry insiders with great results. She positions herself as an internationally recognized authority and consumer advocate for the cosmetics and hair-care industries and routinely appears on news and talk shows, including CNN,  Oprah,  The Dr Oz Show, and The View. to mention a few

If you are looking for the latest information on product ingredients and safety Cosmetics Cop will take you for a journey that not only connect you to your power that is to choose what you pay for and what is in the products you consume, pretty powerful if you ask me, we wish for all of you to skim the milk sort of speak in the sense that what product companies tell you it may not be so much of the bottom line, and you the consumer have the right to know, don’t you think? so here we go.

 

 

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Don’t Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me by Paula Begoun

 

This book helps women find products that make them look great without spending a fortune. From drugstores and home shopping to department stores and catalogs, Paula Begoun and her team review the hottest skin-care and makeup products major cosmetic and skin-care lines. Regardless of the price tags, there are good and bad products in almost every line and with the turn of a page, readers can get concise reviews and fast answers in this completely revised edition. A user-friendly rating system makes it easy to find items worth trying. Paula also includes skin care basics and tips on which ingredients to look for so you get the results you want.

 

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The Original Beauty Bible: Skin Care Facts for Ageless Beauty

 

The all-new third edition of The Original Beauty Bible is Paula Begoun’s most comprehensive book yet. Exhaustively researched, this refreshingly honest guide cuts through marketing hype to educate consumers on all aspects of beauty, including how to assemble a state-of-the-art skin-care routine, choose a cosmetic surgeon, and apply makeup like a pro. It provides the latest research and information on every imaginable cosmetic innovation, with a special emphasis on skin-care ingredients, and explains the pros and cons of all types of cosmetic surgery and corrective procedures in an engaging, easy-to-understand style. Covering the most critical topics in beauty in a factual, no-holds-barred manner, and packed with money-saving tips, The Original Beauty Bible affirms Begoun’s reputation as “The Ralph Nader of Rouge.” For readers of all ages, it’s the ultimate guide to smart beauty.

 

 

 

 

Ingredient Dictionary from Paula’s Choice

Ratings according to Paula’s Choice

 

 

ACRYLATES/DIMETHICONE COPOLYMERGlowee skin

Rambut-Panjang

GOOD

Silicone-enhanced film-forming agent. Also, functions as a binding agent so products adhere better to skin. See film-forming agent

A large group of ingredients typically found in hair care products, but that also are widely used in skin care products, particularly moisturizers. Film-forming agents include PVP, acrylates, acrylamides, and various copolymers. When applied they leave a pliable, cohesive, and continuous covering over the hair or skin. The film has water-binding properties and leaves a smooth feel on skin. Film-forming agents can be weak skin sensitizers, but this almost always depends on the amount used; lower amounts generally are not problematic.

 

It creates the gloss for skin care, makeup and hair products

 

 

 

 

 ACRYLATES/STEARETH-20 METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER

GOOD

A synthetic polymer that blends steareth-20 with one or more forms of methacrylic acid. Functions as a thickening agent. See thickening agent
Substances that can have a soft to hard wax-like texture or a creamy, emollient feel, and that can be great lubricants. There are literally thousands of ingredients in this category that give each and every lotion, cream, lipstick, foundation, and mascara, as well as other cosmetics products, their distinctive feel and form. The various combinations of thickeners play a large role in whether or not you prefer one product over another.

Is absorbent, adhesive, artificial nail builder, binder, haircareemulsion stabilizer, film former, Hair fixative, suspending agent- nonsurfactant, viscosity increasing-aqueous, it gives the emollient feel.

 

 

 

 

What is the term ACTIVE INGREDIENT?

 

GOOD

An ingredient in a cosmetic, a drug, or a pharmaceutical product that is  considered to have a pharmacological effect. when we refer  to cosmetics, the effects on the skin must be documented by scientific evaluation, approved by the FDA, and fallow the FDA regulations. The amount and exact function of each active ingredient must be approved by the FDA after the documentation is turned in. Active ingredients include such substances as sunscreen ingredients, skin-lightening agents, and anti-acne ingredients such as sulfur and benzoyl peroxide and many other that have a claim. The FDA also specifies that the most active ingredient list must be showned first on a product label. See inactive ingredient

 

 

 

 

ADENINE

Adenine and DNAGOOD

Component of DNA that carries genetic information to the cell. See DNA

DNA is the abbreviation for deoxyribonucleic acid. DNA is found in all of our cells. It is the primary component of genes— genes are the means by which cells transmit hereditary characteristics to us. DNA is the basis for all genetic structure ; DNA components include adenine (A), guanine (G), thymine (T), and cytostine (C). It is the mapping of these substances that makes up the genetic code of all human traits and all our cellular functions.And also DNA is the genetic material that is required for all cellular division and growth. Including Asuming that added DNA has any value in a skin-care product is pointless because it cannot  affect a cell’s genetic elements at all. The formation of DNA is a complex process within the cell that requires a multitude of proteins and enzymes for it to have an effect on the body’s genetic material. It is also doubtful that you would want to ever put anything on your skin that could affect genetic material don’t you think? quite dangerous, particularly via a cosmetic for which there are no safety or efficacy regulations I wouldn’t give it a chance. Beyond that, any successful attempt to affect what DNA does would potentially create a significant risk of shade efeccts.

 

According to:http:http://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/adenine#section=Pharmacology

 

Adenine (sometimes known as vitamin B4) combines with the sugar ribose to form adenosine, which in turn can be bonded with from one to three phosphoric acid units, yielding AMP, ADP and ATP . These adenine derivatives perform important functions in cellular metabolism. Adenine is one of four nitrogenous bases utilized in the synthesis of nucleic acids. A modified form of adenosine monophosphate (cyclic AMP) is an important secondary messenger in the propagation of many hormonal stimuli. Adenine is an integral part of the structure of many coenzymes. Adenosine (adenine with a ribose group) causes transient heart block in the AV node of the heart. In individuals suspected of suffering from a supraventricular tachycardia (SVT), adenosine is used to help identify the rhythm. Certain SVTs can be successfully terminated with adenosine.

 

 

 

 

ADIPIC ACID/NEOPENTYL GLYCOL/TRIMELLITIC ANHYDRIDE COPOLYMER

GOOD

synthetic polymer. See film-forming agent

A Large group of ingredients typically hair care products, but that also are widely used in skin care products, particularly moisturizers. Film-forming agents include PVP, acrylates, acrylamides, and various copolymers. When applied they leave a pliable, cohesive, and continuous covering over the hair or skin. The film has water-binding properties and leaves a smooth feel on the skin. Film-forming agents can be weak skin sensitizers, but this almost always depends on the amount used; lower amounts generally are not problematic.

Like Glycerine it binds and adds moisture.

 

 

 

 

ADVANCED GLYCATION END PRODUCT

anti-aging-_huber_fig2_large

POOR

Advanced glycation end products, also known as AGEs, are caused by the body’s major fuel source, namely glucose. This simple sugar is essential for energy, yet it also can bind strongly to proteins (the body’s fundamental building blocks) and form abnormal structures (AGEs) that progressively damage tissue elasticity. The glucose itself isn’t damaging, it’s what happens when glucose transforms into AGEs that’s the problem. Refined sugar from our diets is a major source of AGEs, and more research is revealing a diet high in sugar causes the body to age faster Wow! we knew that sugar was bad for are health now we know to what extent and that includes a high glycemic index so think about fast food!!! (Source: Cosmetics & Toiletries, June 2011, pages 438–444).

Once AGEs are generated, they begin a process that prevents many systems from behaving normally by literally causing tissue to cross-link and become hardened (Source: Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, USA, March 14, 2000, pages 2809–2813). In skin, this damage occurs to collagen and elastin, the chief ingredients responsible for skin’s firmness and ability to bounce back when stretched. AGEs also cause inflammation within the body, which is believed to play a widespread role in how we age and become more prone to disease.

age-final-21-728

The theory is that by breaking these AGE bonds you can undo or stop the damage they cause. There are studies showing aminoguanidine and carnosine to be AGE inhibitors that can prevent glucose cross-linking of proteins and the loss of elasticity associated with aging and diabetes, but many other substances are potential candidates as AGE-inhibitors as well.

One study examined over 92 substances and 29 of them showed some degree of inhibitory activity, with 9 compounds proving to be 30 to 40 times stronger than aminoguanidine (Source: Molecular Cell Biology Research Communications, June 2000, pages 360–366). Carnosine, in particular, is considered a very good inhibitor of AGEs.

AGEs and free-radical damage may be inextricably linked (Sources: European Journal of Neuroscience, December 2001, page 1,961; and Neuroscience Letters, October 2001, pages 29–32), but none of this has been shown to have relevance when it comes to topical application of these substances when they are included in cosmetics.

It is possible in the future that skin-care products will be formulated with ingredients proven to effect the formation of AGEs when applied topically. For now, eating a low sugar diet rich in antioxidants and anti-inflammatory ingredients is the best approach.

 

 

 

 

AEROCARPUS SANTALINUS

Red sandalwood

POOR

See red sandalwood

Has a phytoestrogen component (Source: Phytochemistry, March 2000, pages 605–606), but can also be a skin irritant (Source: Contact Dermatitis, January 1996, page 69).

When used externally, Sandalwood oil or Sandalwood paste (made from mixing water with Sandalwood powder) has a calming, cooling effect on body and mind. It helps relieve fever and burns and stops excessive sweating. In general, it relieves Pitta dosha and helps balance the body after overexposure to the sun. The oil or the paste can help heal skin diseases such as infectious sores, ulcers, acne, and rashes. Sandalwood powder helps smooth and cool the skin and can be made into a paste, lotion or soap for cleansing, calming and hydrating sensitive or aging skin. Sandalwood acts as a disinfectant, diuretic, expectorant and sedative. It is bitter, sweet, astringent and cooling. Sandalwood balances the circulatory, digestive, respiratory and nervous systems. –

The Sultan of Mysore declared Sandalwood to be a royal tree in 1792. Every Sandalwood tree is still under the protection and ownership of the Indian government today, even when grown on private land. The individual who owns the land receives 75% of the proceeds in return for planting and protecting the tree until it reaches maturity. Due to an increased demand in medicines, perfumes, and cosmetics that contain Sandalwood oil, and due to the decreased availability as smugglers cut down trees and export them illegally, prices have skyrocketed in recent years. At this time it is illegal to export the wood from India, although the oil can be exported.

See more at: http://www.mapi.com/ayurvedic-knowledge/plants-spices-and-oils/sandalwood-is-sacred.html#gsc.tab=0

 

 

 

 

AESCULUS HIPPOCASTANUM

rosskastanie_aesculus-hippocastanum1

GOOD

See horse chestnut extract

May have anti-inflammatory properties for skin. Taken orally, it has been shown to reduce edema in the lower leg by improving the elastic tissue surrounding the veins.

 

From:http://www.herbwisdom.com/herb-horse-chestnut.html

 

Horse Chestnut Benefits

Horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum) is a traditional remedy for leg vein health. The tree is also commonly known as horse chestnut or conker tree. It tones and protects blood vessels and may be helpful in ankle edema related to poor venous return. Utilized extensively throughout Europe as an anti-inflammatory agent for a variety of conditions, in addition to being used for vascular problems. The plant is taken in small doses internally for the treatment of a wide range of venous diseases, including hardening of the arteries, varicose veins, phlebitis, leg ulcers, hemorrhoids, and frostbite.

Horse chestnut is an astringent, anti-inflammatory herb that helps to tone the vein walls which, when slack or distended, may become varicose, hemorrhoidal or otherwise problematic. The plant also reduces fluid retention by increasing the permeability of the capillaries and allowing the re-absorption of excess fluid back into the circulatory system.

The seeds are decongestant, expectorant, and tonic. They have been used in the treatment of rheumatism, neuralgia, and hemorrhoids. A compound of the powdered roots is analgesic and has been used to treat chest pains. Extracts of the seeds are the source of a saponin known as aescin, which has been shown to promote normal tone in the walls of the veins, thereby improving circulation through the veins and promoting the return of blood to the heart.

 

 

 

 

AGAR

Poured_seeded_agar_P7231209md

GOOD

See algae

Algae are very simple, chlorophyll-containing organisms in a family that includes more than 20,000 different known species. In cosmetics, algae act as thickening agents, water-binding agents, and antioxidants. Some algae are also potential skin irritants.

Other forms of algae, such as Irish moss and carrageenan, contain proteins, vitamin A, sugar, starch, vitamin B1, iron, sodium, phosphorus, magnesium, copper, and calcium. Most of these are beneficial for skin, as emollients, anti-inflammatory agents, or antioxidants. However, claims that algae can stop or eliminate wrinkling, heal skin, or provide other elaborate benefits are unsubstantiated.

Algae is not a critical ingredient in skin-care products. Although it does have a positive function.

According to:http://www.webmd.com/vitamins-supplements/ingredientmono-80-agar.aspx?activeingredientid=80&activeingredientname=agar

Agar is a plant and one of the uses is for making medicine.

People take agar to lose weight, especially in Japan. In Japan, agar is called “kanten,” and it is the main ingredient in “the kanten plan” or “the kanten diet.”

Agar is also used to treat diabetes and constipation.

In dentistry, agar is used to make dental impressions.

In manufacturing processes, agar is used as an ingredient in emulsions, suspensions, gels, and certain suppositories.

 Here is how it works

Agar contains a gel-like substance that bulks up in the gut. This stimulates the intestines and creates a bowel movement. That’s why agar is commonly used as a laxative.

Agar’s bulking effect also explains its use for weight loss. Agar tends to make people feel full, so they might stop eating earlier than they otherwise would. Some people think this reaction will lead to weight loss. But so far, there is no reliable scientific evidence that supports this weight loss theory.

 

 

 

 

AGARICUS BISPORUS EXTRACT

Agaricus_bisporus_bk-01

GOOD

An extract of mushroom that is thought to help regulate skin cell production by inhibiting cell growth, particularly for use in psoriasis, but research in this regard is mixed (Sources: Free Radical Research, January 2006, pages 31-39; and British Journal of Dermatology, January 1999, pages 56-60). Internally, there is research showing it can inhibit the growth of breast cancer cells and colon cancer cells (Source: Cancer Research, October 1993, pages 4627-4632).

According to: http://www.medicalmushrooms.net/agaricus-bisporus-common-mushroom/

Agaricus Bisporus has substantial amounts of Vitamin D which is good for your health. Eating the mushroom raw is discouraged because of the presence of carcinogenic hydrazine derivatives, albeit in small quantities. These unhealthy derivatives are reduced significantly by cooking.

This mushroom contains Potassium and Sodium too. The body requires potassium in the processing of carbohydrates and proteins in different ways to build muscle. It also plays a role in how the heart works. It also regulates the acid-base and contributes to the overall health of the body. Apart from the Agaricus Bisporus mushroom, potassium is also in present in meats, fish, soy, and vegetables. Potassium is a necessity in the body and therefore its deficiency can cause different diseases. When potassium falls short, blood pressure slightly rises, the heart beats get abnormal and the body muscles feel weak.

Agaricus bisporus, more commonly known as the white button mushroom, is one of the oldest and most popular fungi in the Western diet. It is a regularly added to salads, stir-fries, pasta, sauces, soups, pies and breakfasts. It is cultivated around the world for culinary purposes. In addition to its own unique flavor, eating this mushroom may provide important health and nutrition benefits when made a regular part of the diet. History Human beings have been consuming white button mushrooms since Ancient times. According to Dr. Michael Murray and Dr. Joseph Pizzorno, authors of “The Encyclopedia of Healing Foods,” ancient Egyptians believed that the Agaricus bisporus species of mushrooms held the key to immortality, while Ancient Romans revered the mushroom as one of the foods of the gods. During the 1600s, the French began to cultivate Agaricus bisporus, using dark underground tunnels beneath Paris that are still used for mushroom growing today. Cultivation of mushrooms began in the United States during the 1800s.

In addition to the nutritional benefits of this mushroom, it may have useful medicinal properties that support health and well-being. In a study published in “BMC Complementary and Alternative Medicine” in 2011, researchers studied the effects of Agaricus bisporus on human immune cells in vitro. Agaricus bisporus significantly stimulated immune activity, specifically cytokines and enzymes that are responsible for inflammation. Researchers concluded the medicinal value of Agaricus bisporus was likely due to the carbohydrate-based chemicals called mannogalactans. Because this research was performed in laboratory cells, more clinical research is required to confirm the effects of these mushrooms in humans. However, eating Agaricus bisporus regularly may have a health effect on your immune defenses.

See more at:http://www.livestrong.com/article/509382-facts-about-agaricus-bisporus/

 

 

 

 

AGE SPOTS

Brown spots

AVERAGE

Once referred to as liver spots, these brown skin discolorations are also not related to age, any more than they are to the liver. The skin can develop brown patches for many reasons, but the characteristic small ones on the hands, arms, chest and face are caused by sun damage. These are possible  indications of precancerous conditions and should be watched carefully for changes.

Age spots — also called liver spots and solar lentigines — are flat tan, brown or black spots. They vary in size and usually appear on the face, hands, shoulders and arms — areas most exposed to the sun.

According to:http://www.healthline.com/health/age-spots#Causes2

 

What Causes Age Spots?

Age spots are the result of an excess production of melanin, or skin pigment. Doctors don’t always know why age spots develop. Skin aging, sun exposure, or other forms of ultraviolet (UV) light exposure, such as tanning beds, are all possible causes. You’re most likely to develop age spots on the areas of your skin that receive the most sun exposure, including:

•your face

•the back of your hands

•your shoulders

•your upper back

•your forearms

 

 

 

 

AGRIMONIA EUPATORIA LEAF EXTRACT

agrimonia-pilosa-detail

AVERAGE

Research shows this plant extract inhibits the hepatitis b virus and has antioxidant properties. Whether or not it has a benefit when applied topically is not known. There is no research showing it to be effective for cellulite. (Sources: Phytotherapy Research, April 2005, pages 355-358 and Journal of Ethnopharmacology, January 2005, pages 145-150)

According to:http://www.medicalhealthguide.com/herb/agrimony.htm we highly recommend you to check the site is amazing information on studies of this plant

Scientific Name: Agrimonia Eupatoria (LINN.)

Other Names: Agrimony, Agrimone, Agrimonia, Agrimonia eupatoria, Aigremoine, Church Steeples, Cockeburr, Cocklebur, Da Hua Long Ya Cao

Agrimonia, (Agrimonia Eupatoria) commonly called as agrimony, is a flowering plant of the rose family,  native to the temperate regions of Northern America, Europe, and Asia. Its name agrimony came from the Greek word Agermone meaning healing to the eyes and Eupatoria from  Mithridates Eupator, a Pontus king famous for having invented a complex ‘universal antidote’ against poisoning.  Thus agrimony from whence its name was derived, has long been valued as an important herbal medicine through the ages. Agrimony was once considered a panacea or “all-heal” for illnesses.

Early Greeks used agrimony for the treatment of eye disorders and brewed leaves and seeds are used to treat stomach disorders such as diarrhea and irritable bowel movement.

Agrimony concoction is also used in ancient Greece for the treatment of kidney, liver and gall bladder problems.

During the middle ages, agrimony was used to treat wounds to promote healing.

In Austria, agrimony was used to treat respiratory ailments, liver, kidney and bile problems.

In ancient Northern Europe, it was used as an antidote for poison and snake bites.

In Northern America,  Indians used agrimony for fever, ague, and gastrointestinal problems.

Agrimony was used as an astringent to treat skin eruptions, sores, pimples, and wounds. A decoction is mixed to the bath to wash the skin.

Extract from agrimony mixed with oil was used to treat gout and arthritis. A decoction is likewise drunk with wine is said to relieve the symptoms.

Culpeper, a noted English herbalist in mid- 17th century wrote about agrimony being used as a healing herb both for external and inward wounds. Agrimony mixed in baths was used to heal skin wounds and sores while a decoction of agrimony taken internally, sometimes with wine may heal bruises, hurts, and discomfort.

Agrimony is also used as a gargle to improve bad breath, cure sore throat and drunk to relieve a cough.

Herbalists from the 17th century including John Gerard recommended the use of agrimony for the treatment of jaundice or diseases of the liver.

Antibacterial And Free Radical Scavenging Activity Of The Seeds Of Agrimonia Eupatoria.

In a study done in Phytopharmaceutical Research Laboratory, School of Pharmacy, The Robert Gordon University, Schoolhill, Aberdeen, Scotland, UK, the n-Hexane, dichloromethane and methanol extracts of the seeds of Agrimonia eupatoria have been assessed for antibacterial and free radical scavenging activity.

 

 

 

 

AHA

ALPHA-HYDROXY-ACID-AHA-PEELS

BEST

Acronym for alpha hydroxy acid. AHAs are derived naturally from various plant sources and from milk, but 99% of the AHAs used in cosmetics are synthetically derived. In low concentrations (less than 3%), AHAs work as water-binding agents. At concentrations greater than 4% and in a base with an acid pH of 3 to 4, these ingredients can exfoliate skin cells by breaking down the substance in skin that holds skin cells together.

The most effective and well-researched AHAs are glycolic acid and lactic acid. Malic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid may also be effective, but are considered less stable and less skin-friendly; there is little research showing them to have benefit for skin.

AHAs may irritate mucous membranes and cause irritation. However, AHAs have been widely used for therapy of photodamaged skin, and also have been reported to normalize hyperkeratinization (over-thickened skin) and to increase viable epidermal thickness and dermal glycosaminoglycans content, all of which lead to younger-looking skin.

There is a vast amount of research that substantially describes how the aging process affects the skin and that demonstrates that many of the unwanted changes can be improved by topical application of AHAs, including glycolic and lactic acids. Because AHAs exfoliate sun damaged cells from the surface of the skin, and because this layer imparts some minimal sun protection for skin, there is a risk of increased sun sensitivity when using an AHA. However, wearing a sunscreen daily eliminates this risk.

Note: AHAs are of little benefit when added to rinse-off products, as their contact with skin is too brief for them to function as exfoliants or absorb into the skin.

 

 

 

 

AHNFELTIA CONCINNA EXTRACT

Ahnfeltiopsis-concinna-03

GOOD

 

Algae are very simple, chlorophyll-containing organisms in a family that includes more than 20,000 different known species. In cosmetics, algae act as thickening agents, water-binding agents, and antioxidants. Some algae are also potential skin irritants. For example, the phycocyanin present in blue-green algae has been suspected of allergenicity and of causing dermatitis on the basis of patch tests.

Other forms of algae, such as Irish moss and carrageenan, contain proteins, vitamin A, sugar, starch, vitamin B1, iron, sodium, phosphorus, magnesium, copper, and calcium. Most of these are beneficial for skin, as emollients, anti-inflammatory agents, or antioxidants. However, claims that algae can stop or eliminate wrinkling, heal skin, or provide other elaborate benefits are unsubstantiated.

Algae is not a critical ingredient in skin-care products. Although it does have a positive function, it isn’t the miracle ingredient it’s often made out to be.

 

 

 

AJUGA TURKESTANICA EXTRACT

AVERAGE

The only research about this plant indicates that it may have anabolic steroid properties (Source: Eksperimental’naya i Klinicheskaya Farmakologiya [from a Russian scientific journal], May 1997, pages 41–44). There is no other research showing this to be of benefit for skin.

According to:http://www.naturalcompounds.org/Featured-Extracts/Ajuga-turkestanica.html

Traditional Use and Activity

A plant is used in the treatment of heart disease, muscle aches, and stomach problems. Plant extracts and isolated compounds possess a broad spectrum of biological, pharmacological and medicinal properties, such as anabolic, analgesic, antibacterial, antiestrogenic, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, antihypertensive, antileukemic, antimalarial, antimycobacterial, antioxidant, antipyretic, cardiotonic, cytotoxic, hypoglycemic, and vasorelaxing activity. The extract is offered for stimulation of aquaporins – for human skin hydration in cosmetology. The plant has hepatoprotective properties.

 

 

 

ALANINE

Alanine_422340_i9

 

 

GOOD

See amino acid

Fundamental constituents of all proteins found in the body, such as alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, cystine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and valine. Some of these amino acids can be synthesized by the body; others (known as essential amino acids) must be obtained from protein in the diet.

In skincare products, amino acids act as water-binding agents, and some have antioxidant properties and wound-healing abilities as well.  Amino acids can be combined with other ingredients that have cell-communicating ability to work in unison to fight wrinkles and other signs of aging.

 

 

 

 

ALARIA ESCULENTA

alaria-esculenta-thalles-frondes

GOOD

Alaria esculenta is an edible seaweed, also known as dabberlocks or badderlocks, or winged kelp. It is a traditional food along the coasts of the far north Atlantic Ocean. It may be eaten fresh or cooked in Greenland, Iceland, Scotland, and Ireland. It is the only one of twelve species of Alaria to occur in both Ireland and in the Great Britain.

According to:http://www.aubrey-organics.com/custom.aspx?id=91

 

Aubrey® has always been the leading manufacturer of natural skin care products. Although there are many petrochemical-laden anti-aging products on the market today, Aubrey® is committed to educating the public on healthy, natural alternatives. Alaria Esculenta, a type of nutrient-rich kelp, has many anti-aging and firming properties. Alaria Esculenta grows mainly in the Northern Atlantic. It is known for its long, golden-brown fronds, and its unique ability to withstand harsh waves. It is found just beneath the surface of the water and is known around the North Atlantic region for its nutritional value.

 

Alaria Esculenta extract is a clinically proven, effective ingredient for use in natural anti-aging products, and can be found in Aubrey®’s Revitalizing Night Crème and Revitalizing Moisturizer.

 

 

 

ALBUMIN

0000019_albumin_egg_white_powder

POOR

Found in egg white, and can leave a film over the skin. It can constrict skin temporarily, which can make it look smoother temporarily, but it can also cause irritation and is not helpful for skin.

According to:https:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albumin

The albumins (formed from Latin: albumen “(egg) white; dried egg white”) are a family of globular proteins, the most common of which are the serum albumins. All the proteins of the albumin family are water-soluble, moderately soluble in concentrated salt solutions, and experience heat denaturation. Albumins are commonly found in blood plasma and differ from other blood proteins in that they are not glycosylated. Substances containing albumins, such as egg white, are called albuminoids.

A number of blood transport proteins are evolutionarily related, including serum albumin, alpha-fetoprotein, vitamin D-binding protein and afamin

By Donna Swartzendruber, MSN, RN, CNN

Albumin is the most common protein found in the blood. It provides the body with the protein needed to both maintain growth and repair tissues.

 

 

 

 

ALCHEMILLA VULGARIS

 

 

POOR

Plant with antimicrobial properties. Its high tannin content can cause skin irritation (Source: Journal of Ethnopharmacology, July 2000, pages 307–313).

According to:http://www.webmd.com/vitamins-supplements/ingredientmono-654-alchemilla.aspx?activeingredientid=654&activeingredientname=alchemilla

Alchemilla is a herb. The parts that grow above the ground are used to make medicine.

Alchemilla is used for stomach problems, mild diarrhea, diabetes, water retention, swelling (inflammation), and muscle spasms. Some people use it as a gargle for sore mouth and throat.

Women use alchemilla for heavy or painful menstrual periods or for symptoms of menopause.

Some people apply alchemilla directly to the skin to stop bleeding; improve wound healing; or treat ulcers, eczema, or skin rashes.

 

 

 

 

ALCLOXA

POOR

More technically known as aluminum chlorhydroxy allantoinate, alcloxa has constricting properties that can be irritating for skin.

 

 

 

ALCOHOL

laboratory-beakersAVERAGE

“Alcohol,” the term, refers to a group of organic compounds with a vast range of forms and uses, in cosmetics and in other areas. For skin, there are good alcohols and bad alcohols, corresponding roughly to high-molecular-weight alcohols and low-molecular-weight alcohols, respectively, as we explain below. When fats and oils are chemically reduced, they become less dense fatty alcohols (like cetyl alcohol), which can have emollient properties or act as detergent cleansing agents. There also are benign forms, including glycols, which are used as humectants to help deliver ingredients into the skin.

Alcohols with low molecular weights—the bad-for-skin alcohols—can be drying and irritating. The alcohols to be concerned about in skincare products are ethanol or ethyl alcohol, denatured alcohol, methanol, isopropyl alcohol, SD alcohol, and benzyl alcohol (when one or more of these are listed among the main ingredients; tiny amounts aren’t a problem).

In addition to being drying and irritating, these alcohols can generate free-radical damage and disrupt skin’s protective barrier. Alcohol helps ingredients like retinol and vitamin C penetrate into the skin more effectively, but it does that by breaking down the skin’s barrier—destroying the very substances that keep your skin healthy over the long term.

Alcohol immediately harms the skin and starts a chain reaction of damage that continues long after it has evaporated. A 2003 study published in the Journal of Hospital Infection found that with regular exposure to alcohol-based products, cleansing becomes a damaging ordeal—skin is no longer able to keep water and cleansing agents from penetrating into it, thus further eroding the skin’s barrier.

There is actually a significant amount of research showing denatured alcohol (ethanol) causes free-radical damage in skin even at low levels. Small amounts of alcohol on skin cells in lab settings (about 3%, but keep in mind skincare products use amounts ranging from 5% to 60% or greater) over the course of two days increased cell death by 26%. It also destroyed the substances in cells that reduce inflammation and defend against free radicals, and actually caused more free-radical damage.

If that weren’t bad enough, exposure to alcohol causes skin cells to self-destruct. The research also showed that these destructive, aging effects on skin cells increased the longer the exposure to alcohol; that is, two days of exposure was dramatically more harmful than one day, and that is only a 3% concentration.

When alcohol ingredients are at the top of an ingredient list, they are problematic for all skin types; when they are near the bottom of an ingredient list, they aren’t present in a high enough concentration to be considered a problem for skin.

 

 

 

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Eminence Organics Clear Skin Probiotic Moisturizer

 

Eminence Organics Clear Skin Probiotic Moisturizer (2oz) brings clarity to oily, acne-prone skin with powerful probiotics that remove acne-causing dirt, debris, oil, and bacteria while restoring balance to the skin for a long-lasting clear complexion.

 

 

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Eminence Organics Calm Skin Starter Set

he Eminence Organic Calm Skin Starter Set is the perfect way try the amazing brightening products of Eminence Organics. Including a one month supply of the brightening cleanser, moisturizer, masque, and serum, this skin care kit has everything you need to soothe irritated skin and reduce sensitivity.

 

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YoungBlood Mineral Primer

Lightweight, quickly absorbing, and translucent, Youngblood Mineral Primer primes and treats your skin for beautiful makeup application and enhanced dermatologic health.

 

 

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Copper Bodum Chambord Milk Frother

Designed by Bodum, this electricity-free frother creates café-style foam to top your favorite coffee drinks and hot cocoas. Fill the glass with cold milk and use the plunger to double the volume of milk froth in just seconds, or heat the carafe in the microwave to create hot foam.

 

 

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Bodum Chambord Copper 8-Cup French Press Coffee Maker

An elegant new version of the original French press designed by Bodum in the 1950’s, our Chambord coffee maker is still the simplest and best way to brew the perfect cup of coffee. Its sophisticated design features a shiny copper-plated steel frame and lid.

 

 

 

 

 

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